Most people that go to Spain, will usually end up going to Madrid, or Barcelona. See, it turns out that in the heart of Europe’s Spanish homeland there exists an area that is just as beautiful, interesting and gay as its more recognizable and popular destinations. The bonus is that in these cities and towns, you’re more likely to find Brits and other Europeans on holiday than tons of tour groups and megaphone- toting guides, making for a more authentic and less touristy traveling experience.
It’s called Costa del Sol — and for good reason! The area that makes up the southern tip of Spain along the Mediterranean looks like something out of a postcard, with its beautiful beaches, nearly yearlong warm climate and bright sunshine. This being my first trip to Spain, I was initially a little skeptical of the idea of not visiting one of the country’s major cities. By week’s end, however, I’d come to realize that checking out the Costa del Sol provided an even more balanced experience than I could have imagined: serene beaches, bustling cities, insane nightlife and plenty of gay.
Urban life revolves around the fantastic Málaga, and I could have easily spent my entire week there. Málaga offers up a beautiful city center with dozens of interesting streets and alleys to stroll through and get lost in for hours. There’s shopping galore, great dining, hot bars and so much fascinating history. But don’t be fooled by Spain’s other more famous tourist stops — this might not be Madrid, but Málaga is no small town. In fact, there’s no better proof that the city is gaining popularity as a vacation destination than the fact that Delta now offers nonstop flights to Málaga from New York during the summer, Costa del Sol’s high season. (I connected through Madrid by way of Air Europa and Iberia — also very easy.)
Spain’s sixth largest city is probably best known as the birthplace of Picasso, a fact in which the locals take great pride. Needless to say, a trip to Museo Picasso is a must. One of five Picasso museums in Spain — the Spanish clearly love their golden boy — the Málaga location may not boast some of the artist’s most famous works (Barcelona holds most of those), but it does offer a glimpse into some of his earliest creations. There are also fantastic temporary exhibitions that rotate throughout the year, so be sure to check before you go to see what you’re in for.
The museum is in the heart of Málaga’s town center, which, be forewarned, gets packed come nighttime. Architectural enthusiasts can have a field day with a number of former palaces turned hotels and will appreciate the impressive efforts to keep history in line with the modern design found throughout the city.
Any guide or longtime local can recite hours of historical facts and events that took place here, as Málaga’s history dates back nearly 3,000 years, through Roman and Arab dominations.
There may be no better place to get a glimpse of said history than at the very chic, five-star Hotel Posada del Patio. Below the hotel is one of the best-preserved pieces of the Arab wall that used to surround the city. And from the bottom of one hotel to the top of another, head across town to the AC Málaga Palacio Hotel and go all the way up to its rooftop for unmatched views of the city and coastline. The roof here also lets you get nearly eye level with one of Málaga’s most famous sights — La Manquita. Loosely translated as “one-armed woman,” La Manquita is the name locals gave to Málaga’s cathedral, since money dried up during its construction in the 1700s and only one of its two arms was erected. The sheer size and ornate carvings are awe- inspiring, but the fact that it has become more famous because of bad accounting makes it even that much more interesting.
There are a great number of hotel options in town, including the two aforementioned, with styles and price points for every type of traveler. While in Málaga, I stayed at the Room Mate Lola, part of the very popular Spanish chain of boutique hotels. With a five- minute walk to the center of town and a 10-minute stumble home from the bars at 4 a.m., you can’t ask for digs in a better location.
The thing I found so attractive about Málaga (aside from the locals) was a vibrant, very visible youthful attitude. And for such an old, historic city, that’s something you might not expect. But between the open and comfortable attitude toward the gay community and the laid-back pace that seems to permeate the city, Málaga is becoming a place that more and more Europeans are coming to for second homes — and that more Americans should be going to for a taste of Spain.
Of course, I’d be remiss if I didn’t talk about nightlife, and the Spanish do in fact hold true to their reputation as party people. Yes, your dinners will go until midnight, and yes, many bars and clubs don’t open until 1 a.m. or so (and honestly don’t get busy until even later). Take Reinas, a dark, loud club with awesome dancing, a hot bar staff and even hotter patrons. We walked in at 2 a.m. and there were maybe 10 people there. Within an hour, though, it became a packed, sweaty, sexy spa, sprawling grounds and golf greens with beautiful mountain views. (Golf is big around these parts. Yes, even with the gays.) Also of note is the famous Marbella Club Hotel, which boasts a history of “who’s who” guests. But even better than the history lesson is the beach club, where you should definitely indulge in the best 75 euros you’ll likely spend on your trip: the buffet. Think less Vegas and more luxurious. This is beachside dining on a spread featuring the freshest of seafood plucked right out of the Mediterranean.
Thankfully, I was staying just next door at the Hotel Puente Romano and could sleep off my food coma at one of the property’s three pools. Designed around the antiguo puente romano (ancient Roman bridge), the grounds of the hotel are made to look like an Andalusian village, with lush trees and foliage everywhere you turn, huge rooms and balconies and beautiful attention to traditional design detail. It too has a well-known beach club that features delicious lunch and dinner (though the latter is only served in the summer). But the real draw is, of course, the beach. And with a reputation for having 320 days of sunshine a year, Marbella beaches are some of the world’s most ideal spots to lay out and relax.
In between all the lounging and shopping at nearby Puerto Banús (home to million-dollar yachts and equally luxurious shops and boutiques), take in a different view of Marbella in Old Town. Amazing, ornate churches and darling artisan shops line the curved cobblestone streets of the town center. A walk through Alameda Park will not only lead you right out to the sea, but will also highlight some fascinating sculpture work by Spain’s other equally famous artistic son, Salvador Dali. The Avenida del Mar has become a Dali sculpture garden of sorts, featuring a handful of the surrealist’s famed pieces, perfectly framed by the Mediterranean.
When it comes time to sadly end your Sol experience, take a note from Mrs. O and spend your last evening feasting at the fantastic La Meridiana del Alabardero. One of the most popular and highly regarded restaurants in the region, royalty of all varieties have chosen to dine on La Meridiana’s delicious Andalusian fare. In-season reservations can be hard to come by, so plan ahead! You might not get the whole restaurant to yourself, as the first lady did, but the staff is sure to treat you with the same amount of regality.
gaytravelnews
